Lesson #5 - How to coupon - Shopping!

For those readers, just joining me, please read lesson 1 - 4 before this one.

Now you are ready to shop!

Start SLOW!  If you try to do all stores at once you will become overwhelmed and possibly confused since each store has their own programs, coupon policies and procedures.

Start with one or two stores at a time and once you have mastered those, move on to the next store.  I suggest saving Walgreens for last seeing as they have become the most confusing to shop in our region.

Before you go out shopping, browse the store circulars you receive in the mail, the paper or online.  It helps to know what is on sale ahead of going to the store so you can be sure to pull those coupons and have them ready for your trip.

This is also a great time to decide what store(s) you will consider shopping for the deals you would like.  For example, many times the smaller grocery chains (Seller Bros, Food Town, Foodarama) have GREAT produce prices.  If you don't want to hit all those stores for a few items each, learn what items you can price match at Target and/or Walmart to save you extra stops.

Make a list -
Going in the store with your list in hand is a great way to save money.  Don't allow the grocery store to win with the tricks they pull on unsuspecting shoppers.  Grocery stores are there to make money and they will use many marketing tactics to get as much of your money during your visit as they can.  Stick to your list and don't fall for the "impulse buys".

BUT, don't walk into your store with blinders on either.  Make sure to check out the clearance section as you might be able to score a free item with coupon.  Many stores will discount open or "damaged" packages.  The HEB closest to me will mark cereal 50% off if the box is banged up.  You can see the bag inside the box is 100% intact why not buy that box?  Even without a coupon, that is 50% savings just by checking the clearance section.

Keep an eye out for tearpads and blinkies while you are there.  Even if it is an item you never thought you'd buy, grab one or two, you might just use them or you will have them available for trade.

Finally SMILE!  Couponing can get very frustrating and that is why it is so important to know coupon policies of the stores you shop.  Cashier's are not always aware of the coupon policies so you might have to explain it to them.  Smiling and speaking with a normal range tone of voice goes a long way to getting issues remedied.  I know I tend to be more responsive to someone asking me politely then someone yelling at me and telling me I am stupid.  Save your rant and yelling for your coupon bud our your spouse to hear about, lol.

Now on to the store guides.
Working on the Store 101 and will post links as soon as I get them posted.


Don't understand my lingo? Go here.  

Some links provided in this post may help fund my blog - see my disclosure statement here.

Lesson #4 - How to be a Couponer -When is a deal a deal?

For those readers, just joining me, please read lesson 1 - 3 before this one.

Start a price book!

Whether you keep this in your head, in your smart phone or written down, if you don't know what you are currently paying for items, how will you know what is and is not a deal.

Keep in mind what is a deal for some people might not be great for you.  Don't trust a blogger (including me!) to tell you what is and isn't a deal, this is what your price book is for!  Sure Blogger X says wow, print this coupon, then run to Walmart to pick up this Glade spray for .25.
Great price agreed, but if your allergies won't allow you to use air fresheners, why waste that .25 on a can?  Buying anything you don't need is NOT saving and is not the deal for you.  There is ONE huge exception to buying things you won't use.  If they are 100% free and the coupon is going to just go to waste otherwise, by all means pick up that free item and donate it to someone who can use it.

Another deal, Blogger Y says wow, toothpaste for just $1 a tube, RUN!  Well if your price book says you only pay .50 a tube, I would hope you would pass on that deal.

One thing to note is that you will need to break down the price by a comparison unit so you can compare different size packaging to determine if it is your buy price.

BASICALLY - Know you prices by a comparison unit.

Ex: Package of diapers - know your PER diaper price so you can compare the Jumbo back to the boxed packs.

Wipes - know your per wipe price, I know I won't pay more than .01 a wipe so if that 76 count goes on sale, it better cost me under .75 to even get me interested.

Toilet Paper - this is a tricky one, some people use the per sheet price but you can't always know that figure without physically looking at a package(and it can and will change over time).  For this reason I like to use the per roll pricing, for double roll packages I double the number - so a 12 pack double roll I calculate as being 24 rolls.  If you are not brand loyal to your toilet paper then keep in mind you can typically pick up a 4 pack at Walmart for ~$1 so anything more than .25 a roll seems excessive to me.

I can add more examples for those that would like, just leave questions in comments or email me.

Also, this is a great time to determine how brand loyal you are and to what products.  The more products you add to your "any brand" list the more you will save overall.  There is nothing wrong with being brand loyal, but it will cost you extra on that item(we still have about 5-6 items in our house that we are extremely brand loyal).

Don't understand my lingo? Go here.  

Some links provided in this post may help fund my blog - see my disclosure statement here.

Reminder - Walmart a GREAT place for price matching -especially produce

Ok, this post is not gonna mention matchups per se since these end tonight, but I just want to remind you guys who might not be currently taking advantage of this program. I must admit I have had a coupon buddy trying to convince me of this price matching trick, especially on produce, for probably 2-3 years now and I just never really listened. I think partly due to my hatred of Walmart, BUT I have to admit the Walmart near my office has MUCH better produce most days then the HEB near my house. So for the last couple weeks, I have been price matching the various ads and I really got some AWESOME deals this week, due in LARGE part to said coupon buddy mentioned above.
The true trick to this price matching is to accumulate AS many local ads as you possibly can. (I know Walmart commercials claim you don't even need to take the ads in, but I don't feel comfortable leaving my savings in the hands of others, and they may not have ALL the ads available in store).
Well, lucky for me, my coupon bud works in a different part of town so she has access to ads for stores that are in Houston, but the sheer effort to get there is not worth the time OR gas. Well, it seems those stores have WONDERFUL produce prices (try .99 seedless Watermelons, 3 lbs $1 peaches, and 2 lbs $1 Sweet potatoes!!!)

So, the last couple days(I was not organized enough this week to do it in one trip) I have gone to the Walmart literally across the street from my office and painlessly price matched a total of  5 different grocery ads.  Not only did I save money on the purchase price, but I saved on gas and the time it would have taken to go to 5 different stores.

So there are 2 take away lessons for this blog post.
1. Price matching DOES pay in savings (in price, gas AND time)
2. Find a coupon buddy that you can split effort with to get the best return.  My friend supplies me with ads I cannot get easily on my own and I do the same for her, (or trade for stuff that is free after RR or ECB that I have no need for)

ALL these items would have cost me $22.90 by Walmart prices but because of price matching, I got them all at Walmart for $10.89, a savings of $12.01!  I don't feel it took me any longer to check out as I was organized and place the items on the belt by ad and just pointed out the pricing.  Cashiers gave me ZERO hassle and I was in and out and $12 richer just for 1 week of produce shopping!
I have to admit I don't often buy cheeries, but with the price match of $1.99 I picked those up as a treat :)

Special thanks to Maya for a few ads and putting up with me all these years :)
Don't understand my lingo? Go here.   Some links provided in this post may help fund my blog - see my disclosure statement here.

Couponing Advice - Check YOUR ad before wasting your gas!

So.....
It would seems sometimes I read a blog and THINK hey, let me go to store X and get this really hot deal I read about and be super happy.  Well, then I get to said store and am disappointed that I don't have that hot deal!  Well, serves me right for a few reasons.  And the reason for this blog post is so you don't suffer the same fate and waste time and gas and then lose interest in this whole coupon thing!

Well, I read the following matchups on a blog (not blaming the blog here, as again completely my fault for not checking my online ad for accuracy before heading out to store)

Anyway, read the blog and read that I could get the following items at Staples:

* Staples 8.5 x 11″ Multi-purpose Paper $5.99
Submit for the $5.74 Easy Rebate (limit 2 rebates per household)
Final Cost 25¢ each
* HP Everyday 8.5 x 11″ Photo Paper 50 pack $9.99
Submit for the $8.99 Easy Rebate (limit 2 rebates per household)
Final Cost $1 each
* Staples Pastels 8.5 x 11″ Colored Paper 500 sheets $8.79
Submit for the $3.79 Easy Rebate (limit 2 rebates per household)
Final Cost $5 each

So, I went to Staples, armed with my $10/50 from Recyclebank thinking this would be a pretty stellar deal all combined.
(I was gonna get 2 @ $5.99 + 2 @ 9.99 + 2 @ 8.79 , then throw in 2 5 packs of mechanical pencils 2 @ 25¢ = $50.04 + tax - $10/50 = $40.04 + tax but get back $37.04 for an overall cost of ~ $3 + tax)

Well, when I got there and looked at the ad, the Staples Pastels was NOT in the ad as a rebate item.  Not only that, it was not marked on the shelf as such.  Well, that wasn't going to work.  I really didn't need the photo paper (I never print my own since I don't have a good printer for that, so that was just a filler item)
So, in the end, I left empty handed and upset that I wasted my gas.  I could have saved myself the time and gas simply by going to Staples.com to verify the deal first.

So even a seasoned couponer runs into brick walls sometimes and makes silly rookie mistakes!

(On a side note, I did consider a different scenario while there- but didn't get because I am not sure I have a coupon in need of the internet security software, but maybe you do???
If so, my store was doing the two above deals
* Staples 8.5 x 11″ Multi-purpose Paper $5.99
Submit for the $5.74 Easy Rebate (limit 2 rebates per household)
Final Cost 25¢ each
* HP Everyday 8.5 x 11″ Photo Paper 50 pack $9.99
Submit for the $8.99 Easy Rebate (limit 2 rebates per household)
Final Cost $1 each
And if you need Internet Security, they had McAfee Internet security for 1 pc for $39.99 less a $30 mir.
2 @ 5.99 + 2 @ 9.99 + 39.99 = 71.95 - $10/50 = 61.95 + tax
Get back 2 @ 5.74, 2 @ 8.99 and $30 in rebates = 59.46 = $2.49 + tax (not a bad deal!)

So lessons learned:
If ads are available online, always check the ad before you go to the store
Make sure you read at least 1 local blog in hopes they post to confirm the deal is live in your area
Don't go to a Staples that requires you to hit 20 more red lights to get home if you already suffer from road rage ;P

Don't understand my lingo? Go here.   Some links provided in this post may help fund my blog - see my disclosure statement here.

Extreme Couponers - TLC series

Well, as someone who maintains a savings blog and posts unreal deals most the time, I feel the need to at least mention the show that some of you probably watched this evening.

If you came here to learn how to whip a shelf clean of mustard or Maalox; if you came to lock up a register because you were trying to buy 4 shopping carts full of groceries at one time; or if you came to see a basement full of groceries just go ahead and hit the back key now and return to your google search, this blog is NOT for you. ( I can't say I care for the show personally)
If, however, you have come to see how to save money on some items you normally would buy then maybe stick around a while until you get annoyed by my overuse of parenthesis and horrible grammar :)
I try to show you my actual trips and sometimes I admit I buy stuff I don't use just to get the stuff I do.  (stick around a little and this will all make sense)
And, for those of you in or around the Houston area that are just starting out, I have very sad news.  One of our largest grocery stores is striking a blow to coupon shoppers across the great Houston Metro area by doing away with double and triple coupons on April 12th.  Come the morning of April 13th, the face of couponing in Houston will change.  We are fighting against this as those doubles and triples really do help many people put food on the table and make budgets balance in this tough economy.  If you are interested in finding out more about our cause, please visit us at Kroger Couponers on facebook.

Now feel free to stick around and see how to get free health and beauty items with coupons as well as decent deals on groceries.  Thanks for visiting :)

How to be a Couponer : Lesson 3 - How do I organize all these coupons!

For those readers, just joining me, please read lesson 1 and 2 before this one.

Ok, hopefully by now, you have loads of coupons. Well, now you need a system to organize those coupons. If you can't find your coupon for a sale, it does you no good.
There are many ways to sort coupons and you might have to test drive a few methods until you get what works best for you.  As is true for most things, no one way works for everyone (shoot, one way alone doesn't even work for me!  I use a mix of these methods!)

A few of the deciding factors in your method of organization are:
How much time do you really have to clip and sort?
How many inserts do you get a week?
Do you have a smart phone? (more explanation on this later)
How much couponing do you want to do?

If you only get 1 insert a week and a few scattered coupons here and there, then the binder method, mixed with possibly the envelope method is probably best for you.  If you get upwards of 10 or more inserts, you might want to do the filing method mixed with the envelope method.  Let me explain each method and you will really need to decide what is easiest on you.

Folders with inserts

You can use a filing cabinet, an empty drawer, a pile on a desk, or as I have a bankers box. I personally use the bankers box because I got it FREE out of a recycle bin. My pocket folders were also free salvage!
With this method, you basically take your Whole insert and place it in a folder with other whole inserts for the same week.  Depending on how many like inserts you get, you could have as many as 5 folders for the week(this past weekend had 5 inserts!)  Some couponers write in marker on the cover the date of the insert.  Others(like myself) just write the date on the folder I put it in.  I put the date the insert was in the Sunday paper and what insert it is (SS, RP, P&G or GM).  If the inserts are thin, I sometimes combine two types (GM in same folder as RP)
Depending on time constraints, I most often go one step further and decollate  my inserts (put like pages together, this makes it easier when I go to pull a coupon and when I am pulling out expired pages)
This method really works well if you get 10 or more like inserts.
With this method however, it certainly helps to have a smart phone or internet access in the event you stumble upon a hidden sale, clearance or going out of business sale! (more on this later)
With this method, you few the ads(or blogs) and clip what you need and go.  This method works GREAT with the envelope method or accordion file.

Accordion file/Envelope method

 The accordion file can be a purse size like this(my husband bought this for me when I FIRST started couponing, lol)  You can have each section "house" the coupons for a particular store. Or

The envelope method.  The upper picture is basically just a paper envelope for each store, with the coupons inside for deals that week.  This one works real well since you can write your shopping list directly ON the envelope.  Also, envelopes like this are FREE.  Think junk mail, credit card applications, bills come with return envelopes(if you use online bill pay, save this for this method), your bank has envelopes at the drive thru etc.  When it gets too cluttered or worn out, chuck it in the recycle bin and grab a new one.
Or, the bottom pic shows my revised "envelope method"  I have a zipper pouch for each BIG store I shop with my coupons, loyalty cards, lists, coupon policy etc, all tucked inside (I got these zipper pouches FREE from a Sunsilk trial size money maker deal at CVS about 4 years ago!) 

With any of these 3 pictured ways, you most likely will need to clean out the envelopes weekly and refill those coupons you ended up not using for easy access later.
I also suggest if you use this method and shop several "similar" policy stores, have a generic envelope for those coupons on items you know will be free somewhere.
Ex:  Both Randalls(Safeway) and Kroger in my area double up to .50 and triple up to .35.  I know if I get a .35 Softsoap coupon, eventually ONE of those stores is gonna net me free Softsoap.  I keep these coupons in the misc. envelope so they are clipped and ready when I stumble upon that deal, unadvertised or not.

Binder Method

Those of you that watched Extreme Couponers got several glimples of those coupon binders! I used to be 100% binder method, but that takes a lot of time and devotion to clipping, sorting, filing, and maintaining. Don't get me wrong, I still use a binder, but I use it for the tearpads, blinkies, and clipped coupons.
If I clip a coupon for a deal that I am not able to take advantage of, rather than refile in the folders with full inserts, I sort them into a binder. (this is actually a picture of one of my binders)
Most couponers that use the binder method use either baseball card inserts(can be purchased at most Walmarts, Toys R Us, or baseball card stores), photo sleeves or CD sleeves or a combination of the three.
You will need to sort your binder into categories that make sense for you:
Some shoppers like to sort by aisle if they are partial to a particular store, some alphabetical(I could never make that one work), and some by just general category (deodorant, toothpaste, cleaning supplies, breakfast aisle, etc)
I sort by category and have a zippered pencil holders in each binder for the larger coupons or tearpads that just don't fit well in the baseball card sleeves.  You can start out with just a run of the mill binder, but if you choose to stick with the binder method, I suggest you get a zippered binder with a shoulder strap. (I have the Case-It brand I got on 90% off clearance at CVS after back to school sale)

There are TONS of products out on the market too that you might see advertised on blogs and online as the ultimate couponer tool.  I recommend you hold off purchasing any of these products until you find a system that truly works for you.  Don't waste your money on the hype!  You are here to save money, not spend it and I guarantee once you start couponing and stick with it, you will find what works for you and most likely find it at 90% off!!!!

Hopefully now that I have you prepared to shop your stores, you have your coupons and you have them organized, I can finally show you HOW to put all these tools to use!  Stay tuned for Lesson #4

How to be a Couponer : Lesson 2 - Where do I get coupons?

For those of you just joining me, please go here first to read Lesson 1.

There are coupons EVERYWHERE!  The most obvious source is the Sunday paper.  The paper varies on how many inserts they have, but they could have a SmartSource (also called SS)

A RedPlum (also called RP)

A Proctor and Gamble (also called P&G)

and occasionally, a General Mills (also called GM - picture to be added later).
If you want to know ahead of time what inserts are coming out that week, you can see the schedule here.


There are many other sources for coupons, and each of these coupons has a name in the couponing community.
They include:
Coupons you can print from the Internet (called Internet printables or IP's)  These can be straight off the manufacturer sites, or from sources like coupons.com, smartsource, or redplum, to name just a few.  Typically these sites require you to install a printer and cookies so they an limit you to 2 coupon prints (per computer).  Keep in mind, you CANNOT make copies of these coupons on a copy machine, that is considered coupon fraud!

 Peelies - these are coupons directly on the product that you "peel" off to redeem.

Home Mailers(also called HM) - these are coupons or booklets of coupons mailed directly to your house via snail mail.  (Remember me telling you to give your correct address for your loyalty cards!)

Catalina - (also called cat) These are coupons that print out of a machine next to the register.  The company name is Catalina Marketing, hence the name.  Cashier should hand these to you with your receipt and change.
If they don't, do not be scared to ask for them, they are earned by YOUR purchases.

Blinkies - These are coupons hanging from the shelf in little machines or holders.  They all used to have flashing lights on them, hence the name "blinkies"

 

Tearpads - These are coupons on a pad attached to the store shelves or displays.

And Finally - Electronic Coupons (also called EQ, ecoupons, loadables)
These are paperless coupons that you load to your loyalty cards before going to the store.  When you make the required purchase, they "should" come off your transaction automatically, except for Upromise (see information on that site here)
The following sites offer ecoupons:
Cellfire, Shortcuts, PG Esaver, Kroger, Randalls, and Upromise.


Obviously, the goal is to get as many of these coupons as you think you need, for as little out of pocket(oop) as possible.
For Sunday inserts, papers can get expensive!  This is where you need to be resourceful.
Ask friends, neighbors, coworkers and associates if they subscribe to the paper.  Perhaps they do not use the coupons and will be willing to save them for you.
Also, several local venues get newspapers they put out for their patrons enjoyment.  You might be about to get a few copies of the coupons from these places.  (Starbucks, Chick Fil A, Hooters, etc)
Some local high school libraries subscribe to the newspaper, ask the librarian if you can have the coupons.
Your neighborhood recycle bins.  Take a walk down your street on recycling day and help your neighbors by recycling their coupons!
The 99c only stores here in Houston sell the Sunday paper for $1.50.  Beats the $2 price elsewhere.
Or, right now, the paper is offering subscriptions for just .50 a week.  Call and ask if you can have 5 subscriptions!  Be creative.
(any of my regular readers wish to share ways you get your Sunday coupons cheap, feel free to leave a comment)
If that doesn't  work, or you are in dire need of several of one particular coupon, you can always use a coupon clipping service, ebay, or trade for them on online forums.
I have two links for clipping services on my right column.  These are both in TX so quicker delivery for my location since they are sent via snail mail.  If you are not in a state close to TX, you might want to consider other clipping services.

Printable coupon roundup

I have noticed several HOT printable coupons that are currently out. You might want to consider printing some of these before they disappear (like that dang Qtip one)

Coupons.com
.50/2 Crescent rolls (these are good for Randalls .99 crescents combined with cat deal b4 get $1, b5, get $2, b6 get $3 - cat deal is also live at Kroger but not sure cheapest price there)
.50 any Chex mix (makes it free often at Kroger or Randalls)
.30/2 Pillsbury Grands (Randalls has the small ones at .99 as well)
$5 any can Enfagrow (been free at Randalls with this coupon - consider donating)
$2 Hidden Valley Farmhouse dressing (VERY high value should make for cheap/free deal)
$1 Pillsbury Sweet moments (free with loadable and this coupon at Randalls- these are sooooo good!)
.50/2 Hormel canned chicken breast (these go on sale often for $1, so .50 a can at Kroger)
$2 Tylenol Precise (you are going to want this for next week at CVS- I got my ad Monday)
$3 Amerigas propane (this coupon is good through DEC!!!, might be good since we are still in hurricane season)
$4 Prevacid (good for sale this week at CVS, especially if you get the CRT for $6)
$1.50 Welch's Healthy Start (cheap/free at Randalls with $1.99 in ad coupon and loadable)

Smartsource
.50/2 Crescent rolls(there are currently NO insert coupons for these!!!!!)
.50 Land o Lakes spreadable butter (hoping for $1 sale!)
$1 Truvia sweetener (combine with $1 loadable from randalls.com)
$1 Wholly Guacamole (7 oz goes on sale for $1 often at HEB)

Redplum
$1 misc Ball/Kerr coupons (for all your canning)

BTFE
$1/2 BC potatoes (great for btfe deal at HEB since they don't double)
$1/2 Pillsbury Crescent rolls(great for Randalls deal to combine with .50/2 above)
$1/2 Pillsbury Grands (again great for Randalls- thanks Frugal Darling)
$1/2 Pillsbury Sweet rolls
$1/2 Gogurt (great for HEB promo, get the free Toaster strudels wyb gogurt too)

Betty Crocker
$1/2 BC potatoes (again good for HEB deal)
$1/2 Pillsbury Crescent rolls (Randalls!)
$1/2 Pillsbury Grands
$1/2 Go Gurt (HEB deal)

Pillsbury
$1/2 Pillsbury crescent rolls
$1/2 Pillsbury Grands
$1/2 Pillsbury sweet rolls
$1/2 Gogurt

EatBetterAmerica
similar to above 3

Will post more finds as time allows

Deal scenario for Randalls Pillsbury
Buy 2 Grands, 2 crescent, 2 sweet rolls All $1 each
-.50/2 or $1/2 coupons listed above for each grouping
$3 oop and earns $3 back (if you have loadables from Cellfire or Shortcuts BONUS!)
Rinse and repeat until you are stocked on Pillsbury!
(Keep in mind, if you are in TX, the $3 catalina is probably programmed to take off tax, so to roll it, you will need a small item to cover your tax rate- 8.25% area would be .25 so buy a banana or two :)

FACEBOOK Coupons
You will need to "like" the companies to get the coupons
$2 got2be full size product
.50/2 Campbell's Soup

Coupons you are definitely gonna want to print/load.......

Ok guys, HUGE sales going at Randalls and Kroger (will post my run later)
But if you want to take advantage of two vanishing cat deals at Kroger you need to get ON THE BALL and load and print coupons!!!!!!

Here is what you need to load:
Shortcuts - load EVERYTHING!

Cellfire - load to Kroger card
Chex Mix
Gardetto
Nature Valley Granola thins
Betty Crocker Warm delights
Old El Paso
PB Sweet Moments
PB Toaster Strudels
Dessert Toppers

Load to Randalls card
All the MDA marked items
BC fruit snacks
Bisquick
Cinnamon Toast Crunch
Fiber One Chewy bars
Totino pizza
BC cake/frosting

Randalls.com
Load Ace, Glade, Huggies

Coupons to print:
Coupons.com
.50 NV granola thins
.50/2 BC fruit snacks
.50 Fiber One chewy bars
.55 Cocoa Puffs
$1/2 GM listed cereals
.55 Trix
.50 Gardetto's
.50 NV sweet and salty bars
.50 BC frosting and cake mix
$1 PB Sweet Moments

Redplum

Smartsource
.50 Fiber One Chewy bars
.55 Cocoa puffs cereal
$1/2 listed GM cereals
.50 NV granola thins
.50 Chex Mix
.50/2 BC fruit snacks
B1G1 Mrs Pauls or Van De Kamp's seafood, get one Birdseye veggie free
$1 Clean and Clear product (for trial size at CVS)

Target
.50 Chex Mix
.50 NV sweet and salty bars
.55 Cocoa Puffs cereal
.50 NV granola thins
$1 PB Sweet Moments
$1/2 GM listed cereals
$1 NV nut clusters
.75 Kix
.50 Fiber One Chewy bars
.55 Trix
$2 Huggies Little Snugglers
$1 Ace bandages
$/5 Totinos party pizza


Kroger deals
Kroger has a mega deal going on and for each group of 8 participating items, you get $4 off instantly. This is my rough list I take to the store with me to shop. Remember to buy in groups of 8 to get the prices listed:

Assuming you buy in groups of 8:
2 Bumble Tuna .50 - $1/2 homemailer = free

Chex Mix/Bugles/Gardetto’s .99 - .50 IP, insert = FREE

Pillsbury toaster strudels $1.49 - .35 insert - .50/2 cf or sc = .19 each

Sunny D .78 -.25 insert = .03 (Earn 20 free books with 20 labels)

Bumble bee tuna pouches .50 - .55 blinkie = .05 MM

Cocoa Puffs $1.48 - .55 sc - .55 IP = .38

Cheerios $1.48 - .55 cf - $1 peelie = .07 MM

*Trix $1.48 - .55 IP = .93

*Total $1.48 - $1 IP or peelie = .48

*Cookie Crisp or Golden Grahams $1.48 - $1/2 insert or IP = $1.96/2
*Purchasing these 4 cereals in groups of 4 will trigger a $4 oynso Catalina through Sunday (multiple catalinas will print)

Old el Paso Taco shells or refried beans .99 – b2g1 free peelie(should take off $1.49) - .60/2 cellfire or shortcuts = .88/3

*Nature Valley granola bars $1.99 - .75/2 sc -.50 IP or insert = $1.23/2

*Nature Valley thins $1.99 - .50 cf or sc - .50 insert = .49

*Nature Valley nut clusters $1.99 - $1 cf or sc - $1 insert or IP = .01 MM
*Purchasing 5 of these 3 products will trigger a $3.50 oynso Catalina through Sunday (only one cat will print per transaction)

Betty Crocker Warm delights $1.49 - .50 sc or cf - .50 IP = .01 MM

Betty Crocker boxed potatoes .89 - .50/2 sc - $1/2 peelie = .28/2


*Thanks HCW for some of these finds.

Sometimes it pays to hold onto receipts

One thing I don't think I have ever mentioned in talking to people about couponing and rebating is the importance of holding onto your receipts for awhile. I know not all extreme couponers do, but I do it knowing I might be able to score some free money down the road.
Sometimes you will find out about a rebate a few weeks after the start date of said rebate. Well, that is when I go to my stack of receipts and start looking to see if I purchased any qualifying items for that rebate. If so, most likely I still have them onhand for upcs and what not and that just means I don't have as much I need to purchase for a rebate.
Pictured above is how I keep my receipts. I keep the envelopes I receive from junkmail and bills(I do online bill pay) and just put the month and yr on the outside of the envelope(I usually keep the prior years receipts until Dec, then toss them)
Next to the envelopes is a receipt I pulled out from CVS dated July 3rd. On that receipt, I have $17.78 worth of Pantene product purchases. This gets me over half way to the new Olay $10 rebate when you buy $30 in participating products. Now I just need to go to my cupboards and pull the UPCS numbers for the form and get another $12.22 worth of stuff. If you notice too, that $17.78 worth of stuff only cost me .05 oop.

Another tip- READ your receipts! FREE Chick Fil A

You should already know how important it is to read your receipt before leaving the supermarket(do you know how many things I have caught ring up a higher price!)
Well, that same advice holds true especially when it comes to Chick Fil A. Notice this receipt above. Chick Fil A has joined the digital age and now offer their surveys on your receipt (before this they used to hand out cards for you to call in) It seems these are at random as I get them sporadically. So please read your receipts. I know as soon as I post this I am logging in to get my validation code for this offer! I LOVE CHICK-FIL-A
And for those of you that LOVE Chick-fil A too, here are two funny songs about Chick Fil A. This singer shares my passion for CFA, lol!
Chick fil A song and God Bless CFA In both videos, you can see Truett Cathy himself(I could just hug that man)